Categories
3D Printing CNC Routing Sewing

Fabricating PPE

One batch of 3D printed face shields
One batch of 3D printed face shields

This spring when the pandemic began and local healthcare workers were experiencing PPE (personal protective equipment) shortages, I joined up with the global group OSMS (Open Source Medical Supplies), the local RI group C19-RI Rapid Solvers, and Providence, RI artist China Blue to fabricate PPE for donation to Rhode Island health care workers.

One batch of 3D printed face shields
One batch of 3D printed face shields

My totals for personally fabricated PPE are as follows:

  • 1232 3D printed face shields
  • 75 sewn masks
  • 93 CNC routed ear savers
  • 235 3D printed ear savers
  • 120 door grabers/COVID keys

Face Shields

3D printing PPE
3D printing PPE

Design

The face shield I produced was the 3D Verkstan version, designed by Erik Cederberg. I found this design to be both comfortable, quick printing, and it can “stack” for overnight print jobs. and I printed all the face shields on two Ultimaker 2 3D printers in PLA plastic.

Unassembled face shield
Unassembled face shield
Assembled face shield
Assembled face shield

Materials

The headband can be printed in PLA or PETG material. I heard from several Maker organizations that PETG is preferred if the face shields will be reused and sterilized between uses, but that if you are printing single-use face shields, PLA will be adequate. However, I was unable to purchase PETG, because all of my usual suppliers were sold out. In addition, I had a lot of PLA lying around and so that’s what I used.

The clear material that shields the face was comprised of clear binding covers, letter size, 7.5mil, purchased online.

Sterilization

Although PLA face shields were considered “single use”, the demand was great and supplies were short. I knew health care workers would try to sterilize the face shields, so I used the OSMS guide on 3D printed materials to create personalized sterilization guides for my donated shields.

Best practices for sanitizing 3D printed medical supplies (FDM)
From the OSMS guide, back when the name was “Open Source Covid-19 Medical Supplies”

Printer Modifications

In order to print faster, I modified my Ultimaker 2 printers with the Olson Block nozzle upgrade and used a .8mm nozzle. This larger size nozzle, (a typical 3D printer nozzle is .4mm), allows more plastic to flow through it, enabling larger layer heights and faster 3D prints.

Ear Savers

I 3D printed the Surgical Mask Tension Release Band for Ear Comfort & Extended Use designed by Davis Becker from the NIH 3D printed model repository. Here is my sterilization guide for this item in PLA.

3D printed ear saver
3D printed ear saver

I CNC routed the Glowforge ear saver design in acrylic. Here is my sterilization guide for this item in acrylic.

CNC routing ear savers
CNC routing ear savers
CNC routed ear savers
CNC routed ear savers

Cloth Masks

I tried numerous cloth mask patterns before I finally settled on what I think is the best out there, the Iris Luckhouse Hybrid Cloth Mask. It has a unusual design that incorporates a inverted pleat over the nose bridge that keeps the mask fitting air-tight without any gaps. I also added adjustable ear loops to the design.

Iris Luckhouse Hybrid Cloth Mask, as made by Anna Kaziunas France
Iris Luckhouse Hybrid Cloth Mask, as made by Anna Kaziunas France

Before I was able to buy adjustable, elastic ear loops (elastic was sold out everywhere due to the makers constructing DIY masks in the early days of the pandemic), I made the cord ties on my knitting machine.

Knitting mask ties
Knitting mask ties, elastic sold out everywhere
Sewing masks
Sewing masks

Door Grabbers/COVID Keys

Made to avoid touching contaminated doors and keypads, these door grabbers are made of 3D printed PLA plastic. This design was created by Gary Meyers and is available on Thingiverse.

3D printed door grabber
Categories
Machine Knitting Sewing / Fashion / Costume

Navy Wool Crepe Vest

I made this vest from navy blue wool crepe yarn on my Knitking Compuknit V knitting machine using Brother pattern 104, which looks like large crocheted eyelets. The vest itself is made from three simple rectangles. One rectangle forms the vest front, a small square forms the yoke in the back and a third created the back and sides of the vest.

Categories
Halloween Sewing / Fashion / Costume

How to Make Hoof Shoes

To make a pair of hoof shoes, you’ll need the following:

  • suitable shoes
  • SmoothOn Free Form Air epoxy dough
  • small screws
  • drill and bits
  • sander discs for a drill
  • paint
  • fur
  • hot glue gun and glue
  • thin cardboard (optional, depends on shoes chosen)

Step 1: Find Suitable Shoes

There are two basic ways to make hoof shoes: start with heelless shoes (like those shown below) or to use a wedge. The heelless shoes typically have two-inch platform soles, which makes them a great canvas for adding hooves, but they are difficult to walk in. Although I used them to make the booties shown above, I was worried about breaking an ankle the entire time I was wearing them.

To create a “hoof look”, you want to minimize your footprint

The goal of hoof shoes is to make it look like you have hooves instead of feet. In order to create this illusion, you’ll need to select shoes that have as small of a sole as possible. Meaning, the higher the heel, the smaller the sole of the shoe. However, you’ll need to balance being able to walk with small sole size.

Platform or chunky sole needed

The hooves themselves are made from SmoothOn Free Form Air lightweight epoxy. In order to get the hooves to stick to the shoe, you’ll need adequate surface area and anchors for the epoxy to grip. Practically, this means that the shoes you select will need to have a slight platform or a chunky sole that you can drill into to add anchor screws for the epoxy to grip.

Having made two pairs of hoof boots, one with heelless shoes and one using a wedge shoe, I recommend using the wedges. Heelless shoes shift all of your weight onto the toes and can be very uncomfortable to wear for long periods of time. This tutorial uses a strappy wedge shoe with a very slight platform. Wedges are much easier to stand in, as you can rest your weight on your heels as well as the toes.

Make a on/off fastener plan

Depending on the shoes you choose, you may need to be creative in how you arrange the fur so you can take the shoes on and off. For example, the boots I used to make the heelless shoe hoof shoes had zippers on the side. I needed to leave that zipper open and arrange the fur around them so the zipper could still open and close.

For the buckle wedges used in this tutorial, I made a plan to wrap the fur around the tops of the shoe in a flap that would attach with buttons that ran up the leg, forming knee-high boots that were secured with elastic at the top. The flap needed to open all the way up so I could get to the buckles.

Step 2: Drill Holes

Drill several holes equally spaced around the front of the toe, in the shoe’s chunky sole or platform area. Drilling holes makes it easier to add the screws.

Step 3: Add Screws

Using an impact driver or a screw driver, add screws to each of the holes you created in the previous step. But, don’t drive the screws all the way into the shoes. Make sure the screw heads stick out from the sole, you want them to act as anchors to hold the epoxy in place.

Step 6: Stuff Shoes with Paper Towels

Epoxy has a tendency to shrink around the toes of the shoes as it cures, making them tighter. Combat this and ensure you can get your feet into your shoes by stuffing them tightly with paper towels. If you are using strappy shoes that you need to cover with cardboard (like those shown in this tutorial), this helps to keep the form of your foot as you apply the cardboard. Otherwise the straps will flatten out and the toe area becomes shapeless.

Step 5: Add Cardboard

If you are working with covered shoes, you can skip this step (and all the “cardboard” steps that follow), moving on to Step 8: Prepare and Mix Epoxy Dough. However, if your shoes are strappy and open at the top, this next step is vital.

Make your pattern

Take some very thin cardboard (I used Miller Lite beer case packaging) and wrap it over the top of the shoe. Take a marker and draw a line where the cardboard meets the sole of the shoe. You’ll use this line to trim the cardboard to make it fit the shoe top.

Trim your pattern

Trim your pattern along the marker lines with scissors.

Step 6: Duck Tape Cardboard

Use Duck tape to attach the cardboard to the shoe. Make sure to wrap it around the bottom of the sole so it doesn’t move around. This cardboard is the canvas for the attachment of the hoof and it creates the space for your foot inside the hoof, so make sure it is firmly attached and well propped up / pushed out with paper towels or rags.

Don’t worry about the duct tape showing on the sole, you’ll remove it after you create the hooves. Also, the duct tape won’t be the primary force holding the cardboard to the shoe. You’ll be trimming most of the cardboard away in a later step and the epoxy will hold the toe together.

Step 7: Trim Cardboard

Trim the cardboard around the screws, remember that the screws are anchors for the epoxy and that they must protrude from the sole. You’ll also want to make sure that the toe is completely sealed, meaning that the duct tape attaches the cardboard firmly across the entire width of the toe box area. Attach more duct tape if necessary around the toe / sole area.

Step 8: Prepare and Mix Epoxy Dough

With the shoe prep complete, it’s time to mix the SmoothOn Free Form Air epoxy dough. This stuff comes in two separate containers and it activates when mixed by hand. Don some gloves and follow the instructions that come with the dough. To mix it, I found it easiest to flatten the dough, then fold in half over and over again.

Step 9: Apply Epoxy to Shoes

After you mix the Free Form Air together, you’ll have about 20 minutes working time before it starts to cure and become hot. This is plenty of time to form your hooves.

TIP: Use an old credit card or some other plastic card to made the slits in the hooves.

Remember, you want to make the hoof as small as possible, but you still want to cover the entire toe area, with enough room for the cloven slits in the front.

Step 10: Allow to Cure for 24 Hours

After 24 hours, your shoes will be completely cured, dry, and ready for sanding.

Step 11: Trim Away Cardboard

Now that the epoxy has cured, you can trim away the cardboard that stuck up above the epoxy and the duck tape that wrapped around the soles.

Step 11: Paint

Paint the hooves any color you like. I used white acrylic spray paint on the main hoof, then brushed on black and grey acrylic paint on the cloven slit area to accentuate it. I then added a few streaks to the rest of the hoof to add texture.

After letting the paint dry, I added a several coats of clear spray acrylic to protect the paint job.

Step 12: Add Fur

Get out your hot glue gun. Starting at the hoof area, add a large amount of glue, then stretch the fur, pulling it tight over the top of the shoe. Cut the fur, stretching and gluing as necessary to cover the entire shoe.

TIP: Make sure that any zippers or buckles on the shoes are accessible! Otherwise you won’t be able to take the shoes on and off. Make a plan from the beginning on how you will deal with these fasteners.

To finish the tops of the shoes, I sewed buttons onto the fur, creating knee-high boots that buttoned up the side and secured them with elastic at the top. If you are working with covered shoes, the finishing task is much easier, you simply need to cover the shoes.

Categories
Machine Knitting Sewing / Fashion / Costume

Copper Tencel and Navy Thread Lace Infinity Scarf


I knit this ultra-thin scarf on my Knitking Compuknit 5 (Brother KH-965) knitting machine using a combination of copper tencel/rayon and navy cotton thread. I started by prototyping the fabric, testing numerous thread lace patterns with multiple materials until I found a combination and tension (one notch above 4) that worked well.


I choose a “wavy lace” pattern (Brother Stitchworld #413) and the plainer #420. Then I hooked up my motor drive and knit about 100 rows of #420, followed by about 200 rows of #413, before switching back and finishing up with #420.

Here’s how to make your own:

1. Cast on 100 needles (needles 50 to 50). I used a closed, crochet, or chain, cast on, it makes the seaming easy when it’s time to join the scarf edges.

2. Knit a row at tension 4, then hang your weights.

2. With the K carriage knob set at “NL” for plain knitting, knit two or three rows in stockinette, ending with the K carriage past the left turn mark.

3. With your K carriage positioned outside the left turn mark, set your K carriage to “KC II” for pattern knitting with end needle selection.

4. Move the K carriage across the needle bed once, and the needles will pattern.

5. With the K carriage on the right side of the bed, push in both center buttons, “MC” and “L”.

6. Load up your second color thread into your secondary tension mast and through K carriage yarn feeder B.

7. Knit the scarf. I typically knit then measure as I go. This scarf measured 94 inches.
8. Bind off either by hand, or with a linking accessory.

9. After binding off, wash the scarf and while wet, steam block the it within an inch of its life with a steam iron, to discourage curling edges.

For my scarf, the steam attempt to uncurl was marginally successful, but worked well overall. The edges still curled, but the bulk of the fabric unwound and draped nicely.

10. Join up the edges by hand or with a Hague linker (shown in blue below), and the scarf is ready to wear.

11. Optional: add tucks to the linked edge of the scarf so it has a more streamlined drape with less fabric bulk around the back wearer’s neck